
On Sunday we went with a tour group to Northern Thailand, Laos, the Golden Triangle, and two hilltribe villages. Tres touristy but we knew that going in and reminded ourselves that the tourist stuff is the easiest, fastest, and cheapest way to see more. First we stopped at a hot springs where they will boil an egg for you that they drop into the hot spring in a little woven basket: just imagine the smell of sulphur combined with the smell of boiled eggs- ew. I did not partake. Across the street they are building a replica of the Angor Wat of Cambodia- very beautiful- totally amazing- and next to the hot springs a giant tea pot- big enough to boil people… and of course- lots of shopping- but we were on a 20 minute time crunch- not conducive to my shopping style of contrast and compare. On we traversed to the Mekong River where we loaded into small little boats that skimmed along the river, I tried very hard not to get any in my mouth but the spray was all over me, and we crossed the river and landed in Laos! Not really like visiting Laos- because technically I’ve not touched Laotian soil, where we were standing was obviously a tourist destination so it was paved but they offered us scorpion, anteater, cobra, snake, turtle, “witch” (banana), and tiger’s penis whiskey, (tequila is better), and I got Laos stamped on my Visa. And more fast, fast shopping! Thought about getting a bottle of cobra or scorpion whiskey to take home but… I prefer the local rice whiskey Meakong which smells very strong, burning your nose hairs, goes down extra smooth and has a lovely warmth that spreads through your chest and tummy. We buy it and mix it with fruity drinks like blended pineapple. Back in the boats and on up the river till we stopped smack dab in the middle and the guide told us we were currently in the Golden Triangle, and technically in three countries at once: Thailand to the left, Laos to the right, and Mayanmar/ Burma up ahead. Not sure that I have this correct but the government seems to call it Mayanmar and the people seem to call it Burma…. Then back to Thailand for- you guessed it- more shopping! And a photo op with a sign that said “Golden Triangle” and a huge (3 story? 2?) golden Buddha that was erected in honor of the Queen’s 74th birthday and paid for by 4 countries: Laos, Thailand, China and Burma. It was on top of what looked like a giant float or boat shaped dragon structure with life sized elephants at each corner. Then to a restaurant for a lunch buffet (oh yeah, vegetarian here often means with fish or without actual pieces of meat- we ate rice and watermelon- the boiled vegetables were in a beef broth and the pumpkin soup had been made with chicken stock L Because I’m not technically a vegetarian I tried it but everything was bland and overcooked gross! But given that everyone in our group was English or German, and they were wolfing this crap down, I’m pretty sure that the restaurant is catering to the taste buds of its clientele. Up to the Burma border- we didn’t cross but I could have stuck my hand in Burma if I had gotten it past the armed guards. More shopping foisted upon us. Lots of street children begging for change. It’s so hard to see that here. I never give money to the homeless at home, okay, almost never, I gave a dollar to a woman the other day. Mostly I donate to shelters. But here, where the dollar is worth 30-34 baht, where I am eating every day for about $6, (or less!) it’s impossible for me not to drop a few baht into the hats of mothers with babies or children with sorrowful eyes and open palms. I have so much by comparison- so what if I can’t get a thai iced tea (cha yen!) every day? Then we headed to two hilltribe villages. Again, this was very touristy- and difficult to explain without some history but I’m going to try to be brief: hilltribe people are not considered to be Thai citizens (I think, kinda like American Indian Tribes are not considered to be American citizens) and they are trying to hang onto their culture and traditions in much the same way. But bus loads of tourists are driven to them, shown around, encouraged to take pictures (at 10baht per picture) and encouraged to shop, to purchase their handmade products- which are incredible. On the one hand it feels very exploitative because they are a crumbling culture: the only people left in the village are the very old, and the very young, any who could get out and go to school or the city have left- in 30 years these tribes will be gone and so will their ancient way of life. On the other hand, bringing in tourists is a way for them to continue existing, a way for them to support themselves because they are an agricultural society and since they are no longer allowed to migrate around, being stuck in one place, even though they have been taught crop rotation, is taking its toll. We met an old woman with no teeth, and either blood or bettle juice dripping from the corner of her mouth, who is all alone, no children, no husband, and she must fend for herself “ten baht photo, ten baht photo” she kept saying. I purchased a purse incredible hand woven bits and two pashminas- beautiful, very inexpensive, because they need to sell their products- but how am I not exploiting them by paying to observe?